Perugia is the capital of Umbria – the central Italian region renowned as the “green heart” of Italy. Known as one of the best-preserved medieval cities, Perugia’s history traces back to the Etruscans, a pre-Roman civilization. During the Middle Ages, the city held great significance as a crucial hub for textile production in Europe. The embroidered textiles from Perugia were sought-after commodities, marking their presence in the royal courts of Europe.
All transformed in the 1500s when the local population rebelled against the Papal salt tax. The Pope’s punishment was a ban on the sale of their textiles, catapulting residents into poverty. Marta Cucchia, custodian of Atelier Giuditta Brozzetti, a textile workshop opines, “We were consigned into oblivion from that time until the unification of Italy.” Being frozen in 1540 until unification meant that the city did not undergo development that other cities did during the Baroque or other periods, thereby preserving its authenticity.
A surprising feature of Perugia is its reputation as a significant producer of chocolates. The most famous brand being Perugina Baci. The city is home to a variety of chocolate shops and artisans, a sort of chocolatiers’ paradise. Despite its beauty and offerings, it still is a bit of an offbeat path in Italy.
Apart from sugary delights, Perugia has a lot to offer. There is Borgo dei Conti, which offers a glimpse into the bucolic Umbrian countryside, just a half-hour drive from the city. Atelier Giuditta Brozzetti upholds the tradition of weaving textiles on vintage looms. Augusta Perusia is a treasure trove for those who love handcrafted chocolates. For the food lovers, Osteria a Priori serves traditional Umbrian dishes in an informal ambience. Lastly, Punto di Vista is a local favourite, offering stunning panoramic views all the way to Assisi.
When it comes to accommodations, the city has plenty to offer. Sina Brufani, established in 1884, makes you feel like you have stepped back in time. Borgo dei Conti, nestled in the countryside, 30 minutes from Perugia, recently underwent a sensitive renovation, maintaining its charm from its days as a private villa in the 19th century, featuring two restaurants, a beautiful spa, and an outdoor pool, cinema and a large park.
Regarding activities, Perugia offers a rich variety of experiences, from medieval art at the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria to learning how Umbrian textiles are made at the Museo Atelier Giuditta Brozzetti. You can lose yourself in the narrow lanes around Piazza IV Novembre and discover surprising treasures.
The city also has a vibrant nightlife. One of the top spots for an evening drink is the rooftop bar atop the Priori Secret Garden. This place is not only famous for its wonderful aperitivo but also for the view it offers of the city.
Restaurants like Osteria a Priori and Ristorante Il Giurista cater to every food lover’s needs with their emphasis on local produce, beans from the lake, lentils from Casteluccio, and so on. Bottega del Vino is a favourite spot for an evening out, thanks to its prime location near the cathedral, great cuisine and live music.
The times around September and November offer relatively better weather, with September being notably beautiful and November offering stunning sunsets adding nuances to your wonderful experience.
Travel to Perugia is best done by landing in Rome or Florence and then taking the train or driving down to Perugia. While in the city, it is advised to park any rental cars outside the city walls and explore the compact and walkable historic centre on foot. Taxis are also available from Radio Taxi Perugia, offering comfortable rides to your destination.
